How does the skin work?

Pore is a common word when referring to facial skin care, but you may not know what it entails. Pores are small openings at the surface of the skin that give passage either to sweat or to hair follicles and oil (sebum). Those two substances combine to form the hydrolipid film (a.k.a. the acid mantle), which keeps the skin hydrated and protected.


Sebum is produced by the oil gland at the basis of the pore to carry dead cells and dirt to the surface of the skin through the hair follicle. It also brings acidity to the hydrolipid film in order to fight bacteria, as well as bounds dead keratin cells together. In reaction to hormonal and external triggers, sebum is overproduced and clogs pores into black and whiteheads. When bacteria make their way to this closed environment, you are at risk of inflammation and cystic acne.


Below the acid mantle is the epidermis with 5 different layers forming a thick and resistant coat. The outer layer is made of dead keratinocyte cells, while the basal one is composed of living keratinocytes (producing keratin proteins), melanocytes (pigmentation) and Langerhans cells that warns the immune system when an intrusive body is detected. This coat is therefore mainly made of keratin proteins and sebum.

Credits: The Ogee Clinic

Below the epidermis is the dermis, containing 70% of collagen fibres capable of holding water to keep the skin taut and flexible. This is where blood and lymph vessels pass, feeding and cleaning all our body's cells. Below the dermis is the subcutaneous layer, bringing nutrients to the above layers and insulating the entire body.


Our skin looses water through perspiration (that evaporates or stays like sweat). If not replenished and prevented from excessive water dissemination by an oily barrier, the skin will loose its elasticity. That is why the best cosmetic on Earth is the hydrolipid film, hydrating and isolating the skin.

What is a skincare routine?

Skincare routines are a wonder for many people as to why they need it, when to start and what to incorporate in it. One simple answer to those questions is that a skincare routine is used to address certain present skin concerns and prevent future ones (mostly ageing and cancer). That is why most people adopt a routine in their teenage years or early 20s.


Moreover, skin products have become increasingly important in our urban modern society for several reasons:

  • heavy industrialization of beauty products from 1910 that has spread the idea of complicated routines with 40 different products for marketing purposes;
  • increasing sedentary lifestyle that prevents our body to eliminate toxins through sport and movement, using the skin instead;
  • increasing stressful lifestyle that put our nerves under pressure and deregulate our hormonal system;
  • increasing bad diet habits and health problems that are reflected on the skin;
  • increasing polluted environment due to exhaust gas, hydrocarbon, cigarette smoking, climate changes, dust, lack of trees in big cities, destructing the hydrolipid film and worsening the skin's sensitivity.


A routine helps facing those new challenges.

How to create my own routine?

The basic daily routine is usually composed of a cleanser, a moisturizer and SPF


However, the choice will depend on your skin type and needs, your budget and your mood. You can start with the Japanese layering routine and adapt it to your best fit.

The basic daily routine is usually composed of a cleanser, a moisturizer and SPF


However, the choice will depend on your skin type and needs, your budget and your mood. You can start with the Japanese layering routine and adapt it to your best fit.

The Japanese layering method

Layering is a Japanese skincare method aiming at the highest hydration possible. It is a particularly complete routine that enhances cleaning and hydration, which makes it a good basis to start with 

Layering is a Japanese skincare method aiming at the highest hydration possible. It is a particularly complete routine that enhances cleaning and hydration, which makes it a good basis to start with 

  1. Makeup removal with oil
  2. Cleansing
  3. Toner
  4. Serum
  5. Eye serum 
  6. Face moisturizer 
  7. Lip balm 
  8. Sunscreen (morning)

What is my skin type?

The skin type is classified with respect to the skin quality. This is mostly genetically determined, but hormones and environmental stress can influence or change your skin type throughout your life. You will need to determine which category fits your situation in order to choose appropriate products and obtain the results that you want.

Normal

What we are all dreaming of. Well-balanced, not too dry or too oily, smooth, glowy and radiant with tight pores.

Oily

Overproduces sebum, which accumulates in pores with dead cells. It is the most recognizable and common type with enlarged pores, dullness, shine, comedones and acne.

Dry

Produces less sebum than required to nourish and protect the skin. Invisible pores but noticeable lines, rough texture and lack of elasticity, eventual redness are among signs to look for.

Combination

    Refers to a complexion composed of different types per area. Your face may therefore be dry/normal on your cheeks but oily on your T-zone (forehead, nose and chin). You should use appropriate products for each area.

SKIN TYPE TEST : Wash your face with a cleanser and apply a toner. Leave it like that for at least 30 min, ideally for 2 hours. Observe your skin by looking for any of the mentioned signs.